This is a Permaculture diploma design of a chicken coop made from waste material. Yet it's meant to be funky and attractive not just utilitarian. This chicken coop is made from a recycled plastic barrel, timber slats and recycled woodchip. This is a video tour of the coop. It is designed as the coop for a waste transformation business called "Gypsy hens". The business will rent people a fully operational coop and hens for £3 a week, short term or long term. The coop design is free to anyone to use for their personal use under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 Unported License.
8'x50' Hoop Coop for our chickens. Made with 16'x4' Cattle panels, 2x4 frame, and 4 year 6mil greenhouse plastic. Here is a link to the blog on our website.
Rob Bob's Backyard Farming & Aquaponics
Published on 30 Mar 2014
Had a bit of rain over the past few days so thought I would share a tip on using lime to keep the odours down when the chicken pen gets a drenching..
Lime also doubles as a lice & mite treatment as well which is a bit of a bonus.. Watched a great clip by Blake Kirby on how he used wood ash to control biting pests in his chicken run.. Something we don't do here yet but think we will give it a crack this winter..
You can fine Blake's "Why have a fire in the Chicken Run" clip here,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCoE6...
At Best Nest Box, our hens are in the greenhouse in the winter. See how we keep a cleaner chicken coop by collecting manure under the night time roost bars. This is similar to a collection tray or poop board. We use a combination of cement mixing trays, greenhouse bench tops, and push in posts. Visit us at https://bestnestbox.com. Home of the best chicken nest box in the USA.
See more at https://bestnestbox.com. Rollaway egg tray for clean, unbroken eggs. This egg tray is reversible. Collect eggs inside or from the outside of your chicken coop. This is for backyard flocks, pasture chicken farms and cage free egg farms.
WARNING!!! Includes 2 minutes of live animal testing using birds-eye-view action footage of what is probably happening right now... We are not selling or patenting, we 'open source' and release this contraption on the world, free for anyone to make one even cooler!
Feathers ruffled from years of flimsy, wasteful conventional feeders, we were hungry to build the ultimate chicken feeder. After months of research and design, then weeks of prototyping, fabrication and animal testing, we finally built 'the Coolest Chicken Feeder in the World!'
Over engineered, fully automatic, holds 150kg of food, stops mess, poop, waste and rodents, made from recycled materials and Glows in the Dark!!!
Seen the video now want all the hard core detail with 45 pictures on why and how we made it?
Behold the longest DIY chicken feeder blog in the world...
http://www.weekendhippies.com/the_coo...
And how is it going 7 months after? (all the good and bad)...
http://www.weekendhippies.com/the_coo...
We gift our learning and effort to the benefit of all.
Chickens are fantastic recyclers and they provide fresh eggs too, we share the basics on how to look after them with the right chook house, enclosure and garden environment and give tips on feeding and general care.
CHESHIRE POULTRYS have carefully selected all our chicken breeds from the top breeders in Europe and our lines are exceptional. Our Light Sussex birds are from two lines, one from Bernard Thompson who won the top awards at the Federation Championship Show 2008 and the other line Nick Smith who won the National Championship Show 2009, 2010, 2011 and Federation Championship Show 2009, 2010, 2011 and his name is synonymous with Sussex's and he has won countless awards with his stock. The birds are very striking in appearance and have brilliant black hackle markings. We show our birds and participate in all the major exhibitions and shows in the UK. We won best large fowl sussex with a light sussex hen at the federation in 2010 .There are many breeders who advertise their birds as exhibition and show quality even though they have never been in a show. Please do not be fooled by people advertising exhibition and show quality birds as you may end up purchasing low standard birds.Visit http://www.cheshirepoultry.com/light_... for more information
Vinegar for the hens:
Few internet sources say no real proven benefit and others say teaspoon to 2 table spoons per gallon.
FYI: Don't use in metal waters/containers.
Please read more info before partaking in vinegar practice:
http://www.vinegarguys.com/home/benef...
Suggested Dosage Rates
Source: "Apple Cider Vinegar Stories" - Will Winter, D.V.M.
•Mix 1 oz (2 Tbs) of ACV per gallon of water or free-choice at 50:50 with water in a plastic waterer or pan. ACV will corrode metal waterers.
Benefits
•It is unpasteurized, therefore retaining the ‘mother of vinegar,’ the source of its vitamins and minerals.
•It is high in acetic and malic natural acids.
•It is a rich source of potassium and is quickly assimilated. Potassium is necessary to build strength and fight bacteria by flushing out toxins.
•It has powerful healing, cleansing, natural antibiotic and antiseptic qualities.
•It provides both internal and external prevention and management of itch, bot flies, fleas, ticks, skin conditions, arthritis, mastitis, cystitis and other ailments.
•It is an excellent cleaning product.
How Does Apple Cider Vinegar Benefit Poultry?
“The value of vinegar has long been exploited by professional poultry farmers. Acidifying water alters the gut’s bacteria, slowing the growth of nasty bacteria, and giving a boost to good bacteria. Acid also helps control coccidiosis and Clostridium bacteria, which can cause a fatal disease called necrotic enteritis.
Vinegar (acetic acid) is a cheap, accessible source of acid that anyone can find. It is, however, not a great acidifier...other organic acids such a butyric or proprionic acids actually work better...(the reason revolves around the pKa of the acid....high-school chemistry, anyone?)
I have never found any study that showed any value to apple cider vinegar specifically, and several studies (the Journal of Applied Poultry Science in 2011, and Asian Australasian Journal of Animal Science), showed that broiler (meat) chickens grew slower when fed 0.5% apple cider vinegar or formic acid vs. pure water.
Acidified water also affects laying hens by making the calcium in her feed a little less digestible (again, based on chemistry....calcium is a positive ion, and dissociates better in a more alkaline environment.....seriously, who ever knew that this stuff might matter?).
Professional farmers regularly add baking soda to their feed when heat stress is expected....this maintains egg shell quality when hens' feed consumption drops due to the heat.
Using vinegar in the water also helps keep bacteria from growing in your water system. It also smells good, and there is some evidence that birds will drink a little more, possibly because of taste.
At the end of the day, vinegar (apple cider or not) is an organic antibiotic that has a place in helping to control bacteria levels in your flock and altering bacterial populations in the gut.
Just remember that it has some minor negative consequences for the hens, as it makes some nutrients less available to the birds.”
Apple Cider Vinegar For Poultry
(Source: Dr. Mike Petrik, DVM, MSc, 'The Chicken Vet')
We are showing you how we are setting up are winter chicken coop and getting ready to move the girls in.
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In May of 2015 we moved back to New Hampshire, to where we are going to reclaim our 8.5 acres, and turn it into our modern homestead. We built the house the first summer. Now we invite you along in our journey of reclaiming the land, bringing livestock back on the land, gardening, permaculture, and all of our out of the box thinking DIY projects. We are excited to document the process of bringing the land back to its natural functioning beauty, using animals, and organic techniques to help heal it and thrive.
These birds spend their summers on pasture. There is no reason they can't get a similar benefit during the winter by feeding them hay. They love it and really do chow it down. Whatever is left in the spring is raked up and put in the compost. Plants grow like crazy in the greenhouses after the chickens go back out to pasture.
Building on the already constructed watering system platform, I wanted to install a storage tank to both store more chicken water as well spread out the time between refills. My water is strictly rain water, so adequate storage is necessary to allow as much refill in the rain catchment system as possible.
Chicken Water Dripper System: https://youtu.be/Le32_IZRt9U
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August 2016 update on our chicken operation running mainly on free inputs and compost. Our chickens live a healthy, fulfilling life, giving us eggs while also generating a tremendous amount of compost.
Winter off the gird is a whole different entity then living on grid connected to the EASE of convenience Even a farm on gird can be a lot simpler in dealing with farm issues then off grid challenges. Today we go back to basics with our chickens. Dealing with our care of chickens during the winter has been a challenge. We d ont want to spend lots of money feeding the hens, yet they require more food during this time. So what does one do? They also need a place to roam and entertain, with our deep snows how do we handle that? Freezing water? Now what? So Starry did a great tutorial on off grid chicken care! You'd be surprise on how many different ideas one can use when caring for these chickens on a sustainable homestead
And dont forget Starry Store for all your chicken needs! she tries to put everything in one place to get you guys started!!
Living in Alaska, we get plenty of snow, ice, and freezing temperatures throughout our winters. Chickens actually do really well in the winter - their layers of feathers keep them warm, acting like a down jacket.
In this video, I walk through some of the basic wintertime care tips, offering some suggestions on keeping their water thawed and ensuring they have a safe, draft-free place to escape during extra cold days and to sleep.
In the summertime, it's fun letting your backyard chickens play and free range around the yard, but once temperatures start to freeze for the winter, there are a few things to keep in mind in terms of cold weather poultry care.
The egg laying cycle of a chicken is directly tied to the hours of daylight available. Lighting the chicken coop in the early morning hours (not at night) can help keep your chickens laying eggs all year round. Listen in as Nutrena's Poultry Specialist Twain Lockhart explains the best way to light your coop in winter time.
During the winter time our chickens enjoy a spacious greenhouse as their home. But how do the hens withstand the rough Scandinavian winter in this non-insulated structure?
The hens walk on a deep bedding made up out of wood chips, saw dust and wood shavings. The bedding is over 30cm deep. The heritage breed chickens will walk on it all winter and mix their manure into the deep bedding as they scratch in it for insects and grains that we through on the ground. This aerates the bedding and start a composting process which produces heat. Through this process the whole bedding becomes a source of heat for the birds.
If you want to know which chicken breeds we use click on this link where I describe the best chicken breed in our opinion:
I'm always looking to save money on feed for my chickens so I thought I would experiment in my vegetable garden and grow sorghum as a FREE and EASY grain to grow for my flock to eat. Here's what I found..
Today I show you guys my chicken coop in great detail. I built my coop on cinder block allowing the chickens to hangout under the coop when it gets hot. Also, I talk about my new Mittleider vs. Back to Eden experiment. Something Sig220Euro suggested. Thanks and Enjoy.
Feeding Chicken for FREE. What to do with the casualty farm animals? Give them to the flies and have their maggots automatically dispensed to the flock. (RESOURCES BELOW):
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First video in a series where we document our experiments in raising 25 laying hens as close to completely as possible on active compost piles and greens. We're excited to develop the process as time goes on, but so far our 5 week old hens are learning quickly and seeming to thrive on nearly 100% compost and invertebrates growing in it. Our goal is to have no purchased grain go into feeding these little ladies.
In this video I discuss some of the benefits of having backyard chickens. About six months ago we decided that we were ready to buy some chickens and dive into animal husbandry in our backyard. While my wife and I had discussed this idea in the past we had always dismissed it since we live in a small suburban community. Although we are not in a big city and we do have enough room it just didn't seem like something that would fit with our lifestyle or living environment. After all, what would the neighbors say? Don't chickens smell? How much time would be invested in cleaning and feeding the chickens? How much does it cost to feed them, heat the coop, and provide overall care? These were many of the questions that my wife and I had that made us reluctant to get into owning chickens. After having these chickens for about six months now my views and opinions have changed quite a bit. In this video I share some of my opinions about how the chickens have become a perfect fit into our family. If you have been thinking about getting into owning chickens I hope you find this encouraging!
Check out the Simple Suburban Living General Store for products used in the coop construction
Typical Chicken will eat about 100g of food per Chicken per day. You can work out the math on how expensive your feeds will be. There are many way to reduce this cost.
1. Free Range Chicken
2. Build compost inside your Chicken Coop to create environment to attract insect so your Chicken will have plenty of food with minimal work to you, the farmer.
3. Maggots Bucket
4. Vegetable left over from your house, or garden.
The list goes on actually... be creative and reduce the cost of your Chicken feeds.
Feel free the add you methods to the comment section, thanks
This is my NON-Freeze Do-It-Yourself water system I installed on October 16, 2014 for my 9 chickens. Enjoy!
UPDATE: Actually, I decided to get rid of this whole system because I believe that bacteria was growing within the pipes. At times the water smelled bad and when I took it apart, there was a lot of black sludge on the inside walls of the PVC. Perhaps the water heated up in the summer heat, I don't really know but I just don't trust it any longer. :-(
Originally inspired by Geoff Lawton's "Chicken Tractor on Steroids," the P2C2 uses chickens natural digging and scratching instincts to reduce the amount of work necessary to turn compost piles. A new pile is built each week, and the chickens dig and scratch through any given compost pile for 4 weeks, after which the electro-net fencing is moved such that the 4 week old pile goes outside of chicken influence. There the pile sits for another week before it's declared finished compost.
This system reduces chicken feed costs, thereby reducing egg production costs, gives the chickens endless entertainment and opportunities for dust bathing, and produces massive amounts of compost and humus which can be used to improve the soil quality of your homestead.
website: www.permiehomestead.com
twitter: @permiehomestead
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This video contains instruction on how to make an automatic chicken watering system. It provides a no mess solution and doesn't need cleaned regularly. The system gives 10 chickens, about two weeks worth of water at a time. With the addition of some bird bath heaters, it also keeps the water from freezing in the winter. The whole system cost under $50 not including the bird bath heaters. The two heaters purchased, came from Amazon and where 45W. I just recently upgraded these to 300W heaters from Amazon as well, because the 45W ones could not keep up on the really cold days. Additionally with super cold days, even the 300W heaters in the bucket dont keep the the nipples from freezing. So I also have a heated dog bowl that gets used only when its below about 15 degrees outside.
A walking tour of our chicken coop that has been winterized for our feathered friends. I talk about deep litter method, creating insulating shelter blankets for them as they sleep, a wind break for the coop, and compost systems around the coop to protect and support our friends.
Some times your chickens go broody and are much more protective of their eggs. When that happens you're going to want to have your hands protected otherwise they can peck you and at times break skin.
I keep a cheap pair of rubber dipped gloves in my chicken coop for when I do chores. They keep my hands from getting pecked and have the side benefit from protecting me from getting coated in chicken poop.
GRIT Editor-in-Chief Hank Will talks with Purina animal nutrition specialist Dr. Mikelle Roeder about chicken coop space requirements to keep your flock happy and healthy.
Ultimately, the amount of space your flock needs depends on the size of the chickens. In general, at least 4 square feet inside the coop and 10 square feet outside per bird is adequate. Making sure your birds have enough space can reduce bullying and egg-eating behaviors.
Nest boxes can be made of wood, plastic or metal, and shouldn’t be too large: 1 foot deep by 1 foot square is plenty of space. Avoid placing nest boxes against a north wall, to protect them from cold in winter. A landing board at the entrance keeps bedding in the nest boxes and makes it easier for hens to get in and out of the boxes. Gathering eggs is easier if you can access the nest boxes from outside the coop, too.
Provide wooden roosts with approximately 9 inches of roost space per chicken, spaced about a foot apart. Metal and plastic roosts are liable to be too slick for your chickens to grasp, and metal roosts are cold in winter. If you use dimensional lumber for roosts, be sure to round off any sharp corners to protect the birds’ feet and avoid health problems later on.
MOTHER EARTH NEWS and Friends offers a collection of videos from a variety of publications dedicated to rural, sustainable and natural living. We’re passionate about helping people learn more about natural health, homesteading and rural American know-how. Check out more videos from MOTHER EARTH NEWS, GRIT and Mother Earth Living magazines: (https://www.youtube.com/user/MotherEa...).
After having issues with doves and rodents stealing our chicken feed, this was the solution that worked for us. Once setup, it took the chickens about a half an hour to figure it out. If your chickens don't take to it, make the hole a little larger to let more feed fall. Please don't forget to share and like this video !
This morning when I was checking on the chickens in my backyard, I heard a strange noise. I realized a squirrel somehow got into the chicken coop and was trying to chew its way out through the metal chicken wire. I propped opened the front coop door and tried to shoo it out, but it wasn't interested in exiting per my suggested route. Instead, it kept trying to gnaw its way through the the chicken wire ceiling. So I grabbed my camera, grabbed a stick, and tried to poke it out of the chicken coop! I quickly learned that squirrels are faster than I am.
Chickens care for their feathers and skin by digging dirt ditches and tossing the loose dirt onto themselves. The dirt coats their feathers and settles next to their skin, deterring parasites, absorbing excess moisture and oil & cooling them off in the heat. They then shake the dirt off and proceed to preen and groom their feathers.
When planning to build a chicken coop there are a few things which are easy to overlook but can cause frustration in the long run. This video shows 3 common chicken coop building mistakes people make.
http://forgreenies.com
This was an experiment that showed positive results. We discovered our 3 hens had mites and wanted to treat them with natural substances and what we had on hand. Our chooks had recently been moved to a new run after being free range. Their new run had a thick leaf litter cover and no area for dust bathing which we believe contributed to the mites moving in. Also their bedding had not been changed for a while and so was conducive to building up a population for mites.
By clearing out and replacing bedding, using wood ash and dilute eucalyptus oil we were successfully able to treat them naturally without chemicals and using what we had at hand.
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Go to http://forum.forgreenies.com to join the sustainable living forum and share ideas, and tips on how to live sustainably and self-sufficiently.
Heated chicken waterer, chicken nipples, Best tips, less work
Backyard coops are small and often enclosed within a fenced area (sometimes bounded by chicken wire) thus creating a more natural living environment, one in which the chickens cannot only roam freely but also peck and hunt for insects. If this kind of "yarding" is both floorless and reasonably mobile it is called a chicken tractor. Many people, especially those in rural areas, keep a small flock of chickens for themselves from which they harvest both eggs and meat.
The number of small chicken coops in urban areas has been growing. This growth has led to the marketing of manufactured chicken coops, such as Eglu, which are designed for more cramped spaces and a tidier look. Manufactured chicken coops are primarily marketed towards urban chicken coop owners and are often more expensive than building one's own chicken coop.[3]
Check out the latest addition to the chicken coop - The Automatic Chicken Feeding System. It is not fully automatic I suppose because you do still have to fill it with food but that is about it. No more walking in the coop and filling the tiny feeder that we had, and this one is much cleaner. In this video I run through the build process for this simple feeder design and also show it in action. This should hold enough food for a few days at least and will cut down on the amount of time spent cleaning out and filling the smaller feeders. This is also much better than the feeders that sit on the ground as they get full of dirt quickly and need to be cleaned. I am using 4" drainage piping for this project which is much cheaper than the 4" schedule 40 PVC. The fittings for the drainage pipe are also much cheaper keeping the cost of this project under $20. Thanks for watching and for more information or other sustainable projects please visit simplesuburbanliving.com
Can I feed my chickens cooked eggs? What about chickens? How about fruit and meat, dairy, onions.......? These are some of the questions that I often get from viewers and that I had myself when I first started raising chickens. During the last few years of owning chickens I have been able to come up with some of my own opinions on this topic that I thought I would share.
First, here are a few resources that I found handy and you might also. They go through some of the chicken feeding no no's (although I don't really agreed with them all). They do act as a good guideline and it is great info that every chicken owner should read.
http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/chi... - this is where I started, I actually used to have this printed out and kept in our kitchen.
http://www.fresheggsdaily.com/2013/02... - this is a blog article that goes through basically the same thing everyone else on the web has about toxic treats for chickens. I swear it is almost like everyone that has a blog just copies and pastes the same info into their site and calls it their own, sillyness....
I am not going to go into the main grain feed we give the chickens in this article as that is a whole different discussion. We use a antibiotic free non-organic feed of varying brands. I will eventually create my own feed for them from local sources but for now we buy the bags from our local farm supply store.
We have a partnership with our chickens, each day we provide them with food, water, and our table scraps and in turn we collect 6 healthy eggs from them. It is a pretty cool deal if you ask me but what should you feed them from your kitchen?
There are many lists of dangerous and toxic things that you should not give your chickens. I will talk about a few of the top ones here and give my experience. Avocados, apple seeds, citrus, potatoes, onions, dried beans, coffee, tea, candy, salty food, dairy, chicken, cooked eggs, and tomato,/potato plants.
Avocado - the main concern here is the peel and the pit, would you eat the peel or the pit? Then don't feed it to your chickens!
Citrus - This is not supposed to be good for chickens however if they get a little bit in your scraps it is not a bid deal. Same goes for apple seeds. We are in the habit of composting all of this type of waste.
Potatoes/ potato plants - We feed cooked potatoes to the chickens in our food scraps all the time with no issues. Would you eat a potato peel? Then don't feed it to the chickens! As far as the potato plants, I have heard that these are bad for chickens so you should probably avoid feeding them piles of potato plants. However this is supposed to be the same thing for tomato plants and last year I dragged all of our plants with green tomatoes on them into the coop and let them go to town. They are all still alive.....
Onions - We feed them cooked onions all the time I our food scraps with no issues
Coffee - no reason to feed this to chickens, great for compost. same goes for tea and anything with caffeine - Supposedly not good for them.
Dried beans - Ok, these are supposed to be bad for them, but would they really eat dried beans anyway? seems like it would be hard for them to swallow. Anyway - cooked and raw beans from the garden or in food scraps seem to be fine.
Candy/Salty Foods - surprise! Candy and salty food isn't good for chickens either. I am sure many of our scraps are salted and we do feed them the end of the tortilla chip bad and that seems to be fine.
Dairy - Supposedly they don't digest this well but they get cheese and milk quite often in our scraps and they all seem to be healthy and digesting it just fine.
Cooked Chicken - This is a controversial one. We don't feed our chickens cooked chicken often but they do get some in tables scraps from time to time in small doses. It is not unhealthy to feed them chicken but some people don't agree with the morality of the process. Our dog gets most of the chicken scraps.
Cooked eggs - Many people aren't comfortable with this one either, that is fine but technically I can't find anything unhealthy about the practice. Also, feeding cooked eggs will not encourage them to eat their own
I follow a simple rule, if I would eat it or feed it to my kids then it is probably safe for the chickens in small doses. Food scraps are not their main source of food, they get only a small amount each day or every other day.
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I found my favorite chicken dead in the chicken coop a few days ago so I immediately went to town to get diatomaceous earth to treat my birds for lice and mites. My little bird was swarming with them.
It is strange because just two days before that I was holding him and he was in full health and I did not see a single thing on him.
I treated all of my chickens for lice and mites with wood ash and diatomaceous earth to stop the infestation from spreading.
I cleaned the chicken coop and put diatomaceous earth in the bedding. I burnt the dead chicken to prevent further spread of the parasites.
I also poured diatomaceous earth and wood ash into the chicken's favorite dust holes so that each time they bathe in dust, they are self medicating.
Diatomaceous earth kills internal and external parasites but is harmless to animals and humans.
Be careful though not to breathe in the dust when you work with it and protect your animals from the air borne dust as well.
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Gave my Chickens a Dust Bath and they love that. The Dust Bath is a Mix of Peat Moss, Play Sand, Fire Place Ashes and a few sprinkles of Diatomaceous Earth (to help keep away Mites). They roll around in it and it is so funny to watch, although in this video two of my girls hogged it and would would not share with the others - no manners.
Then I made them a nice Salad Treat to enjoy because it was a very HOT day outside.
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This small fire helps us in a few ways. Mostly we get to turn the abundance of burnable material (including junk mail) into something useful. So, what do we use the fire for?
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A safe, secure chicken run is an important element of raising backyard chickens and several key features can help make this possible.
Andy Larson, small farms specialist and Homegrown Lifestyle coordinator, talks about raising backyard chickens, including what you need, what you need to do, and all about getting started.
I was fed up with chicken feeders that made a big mess by dropping feed all over the ground so I have designed my own chicken/duck feeder made from everyday bins or buckets, which keeps the feed in the feeder until it's eaten!
Here's my blog post about this feeder and at the end I'm collecting videos from others who have used my feeder design as a base to make their own http://www.selfsufficientme.com/poult...
This DIY feeder is better than any of the commercial feeders I have owned and it cost me virtually nothing to make!
If your chickens are eating their own eggs, you'll need to break this habit immediately. The longer they do it, the harder it becomes to fix. But don't worry - with a few tweaks to your hens' nest boxes and living situation, you can nip egg eating in the bud.
Reduce Egg Breakage
Egg breakage is one of the major reasons why hens begin eating eggs. A few quick tips can reduce or eliminate egg breakage and thus the chances for your hens to get the taste of raw egg.
Nest boxes. Make sure you have one 12-inch square nest for every 4-5 hens in the flock - never fewer than six nesting boxes. Nesting boxes should be at least two feet off the ground and at least four feet from the roosts.
Also make sure you have at least 2 inches of clean, dry nesting material (shavings or straw) in the nest boxes at all times.
Relocate any broody hens, which cause more congestion in the nesting boxes.
Strong eggshells. Keep eggshells strong by feeding a calcium supplement in a free choice feeder (usually sold as oyster shells). Make sure to use a complete feed specifically designed for laying hens.
If you feed hens eggshell for calcium, smash them to a powder so they don't associate them with the egg itself.
Collect eggs early. Collecting eggs early in the day is always good practice. This leaves less time for breakage and egg eating. Most hens are done laying by 10 am.
Lower Stress
Avoid bright lighting near the nesting boxes, and don't disturb hens in the nests. Make sure you have enough space for each hen in the coop, fresh feed and water are available at all times, and if possible, hens have free space outdoors to roam (or at least a run with fresh grass and bugs).
Cull Relentless Egg Eaters
If you have one hen who's determined to eat eggs despite all these tips, consider culling her from the flock. She'll just pass on the bad behavior to the other hens and then you'll have a real problem on your hands.
Verline and Gemma having fun. Not sure what they are getting, the small white things, perhaps fly larvae or ant grubs. This compost is drying out, then I will remow it together with some grass clippings. It will heat up to about 160 F in a half day. Might remow it once or twice more, with more leaves, then put it on the garden. The compost runs out of nitrogen and water, needs to be rejuvenated.
Caring for our chickens and collecting eggs from my hens. This is my daily routine. And just a little info about what I do with the hay I change from the coop when I need it.
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Aloha! In this video I share what I do in my chicken coop! I gather a very fine top layer of soil from my coop! I spread some fluffy grass clippings from my friends husband! So happy that i have that to use because not only I put it to good use, but its also free! I also put it in my compost bin too!! Then what ill do is spread it in an area where i know ill be growing or planting something! Its so fun & exciting! The chickens do a lot of work for me tilling/turning oh & pooping too! Anyway hope u enjoy this video take care & always garden with aloha!🌈
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